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Behind the Scenes of Chicago’s Iconic Calumet Fisheries

Behind the Scenes of Chicago’s Iconic Calumet Fisheries

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Just beyond a pair of nondescript silos where 95th Street meets the Calumet River, the red roof of Calumet Fisheries beckons. It is a Chicago institution – a humble, one-room shack that has served up smoked fish from a nearly-century-old smoker for decades.

“The whole point of Calumet Fisheries is the experience,” manager Javier Magallanes told Geoffrey Baer in Touring Chicago’s Lakefront. “We like to explain to customers…what the process is, so that way they’re part of the experience, as well. They don’t just eat the smoked stuff. They actually see how it’s done.”

Calumet Fisheries has survived major changes to the fishing industry, the shuttering of former nearby steel mills, and a fire that closed its doors in 2023. Photographer Jack X. Li went behind the scenes to capture some of the magic.

The outside of the Calumet Fisheries store.
Calumet Fisheries first opened in 1928. In 1948, brothers-in-law Len Toll and Sid Kotlick bought the restaurant. The Kotlick and Toll families still run it today.
Pieces of seasond fish hang from racks.
Worker Giovanni Rosas prepares racks of fish to go in the smokehouse, which is located just outside the building.
A piece of fish rests on a cooking sheet covered with spices
A worker placing a piece of fish on a rack

The restaurant brines their fish overnight.

The pepper and garlic salmon at Calumet Fisheries has a “taste that will keep you coming back,” the restaurant says on its website.

A mural depicts the late chef Anthony Bourdain and the James Beard Award.
On the exterior wall of the smokehouse, a mural depicts the late chef Anthony Bourdain, who visited Calumet Fisheries in 2009 for an episode of his show No Reservations. The medal above Bourdain in the mural represents Calumet Fisheries’ 2010 James Beard Award in the America’s Classics category.
A rack of fish waits outside the smoke house as a worker hangs fish inside.
Magallanes told Geoffrey Baer that the smokehouse at Calumet Fisheries dates back to when the restaurant first opened in 1928. It has been preserved as it was ever since – it has never been cleaned.
A rack of seasoned fish gets hung in the smokehouse.
A wide variety of fish are on the menu. In addition to their famous shrimp and salmon, they serve chubs, eel, rainbow trout, sable, sturgeon, herring, trout, and whitefish. As owner Mark Kotlick told Check, Please! in 2012, “If it swims, we smoke it.”
Fish hangs from racks in the smokehouse.
Fish hangs from racks in the smokehouse.
A worker pushes flaming logs into the smokehouse.
Calumet Fisheries uses oak logs, split by hand, for the smokehouse. In the background, the bridges offer a glimpse into the neighborhood’s history. Calumet Fisheries is located in the South Deering community. It’s on the city’s rarely mentioned East Side, not far from the Indiana border. The neighborhood was once a busy industrial area, made up primarily of steel mills. Steel workers often stopped by Calumet Fisheries for a meal fresh from Lake Michigan.
A worker stands outside the smokehouse as fish hangs above the burning logs.
The very food itself at Calumet Fisheries originally came from another bygone Chicago industry – commercial fishing. Whitefish, perch, and lake trout were once plentiful in Lake Michigan, but a combination of overfishing and the rise of invasive species led to the decline of the industry. The steel industry also declined beginning in the 1970s, hitting the neighborhood hard.
A worker pulls a rack of fish out of the smokehouse.
Rosas has been working at Calumet Fisheries for three years. He’s been working the smokehouse for about a year.
Fish hangs in the smokehouse with beams of light show through the smoke.

The fish spend hours in the smokehouse, carefully tended by the workers.

Heads and collars are on the menu, too.

Closeup of fish heads and collars on the racks.
A worker stirs a large pot of boiling shrimp.
Shrimp is a popular offering at Calumet Fisheries and comes both smoked and fried.
Employees stand by work stations preparing fish in a pan and a basket of shrimp for frying.
A worker prepares batter for the fried shrimp. The batter is a secret family recipe.
The menu board at Calumet Fisheries.
The menu may be no-frills, but the James Beard Award medal that hangs on the wall is a testament to the institution’s prestige.
Smoked fish await customers in the refrigerated display case. Customers weigh their options before ordering. A worker weighs an order for a customer.
A worker hands a plastic bag of food over the counter to a customer.
On November 21, 2023, an electrical fire broke out at Calumet Fisheries, badly damaging the building’s roof. The smokehouse was safe. It took months to rebuild before finally reopening in June 2024. “I didn't notice it until we closed down and opened back up. But people really do – they missed us,” Magallanes said. “They really missed us, and they really came out to show support. We get stories of people coming in and saying, ‘I remember coming in when I was five or two years old with my grandfather,’ and now they’re bringing their grandchildren.”
Four men sit at a picnic table outside to eat their meals.

There’s no seating inside Calumet Fisheries, so all orders are made to go. And for the customers who want to stick around when the sun is shining, there are a pair of picnic tables outside on the sidewalk just before the 95th Street Bridge.

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